1/2/11: daily life in Addis

It's the weekend which is the most tedious time. I am not working and there is virtually no cultural scene. I have seen the only decent English speaking movie in town. I have not seen or heard a single musical instrument as you would know it. There is plenty of "cultural" music but it becomes annoying after a while. Bars with dancing are popular among the young, and any white person getting involved is welcome and applauded. Otherwise white males are easily tolerated and generally are seeking a stunning Ethiopian hooker as they are ubiquitous in and around the bars.

Last night I went to dinner with Naomi (lynn's guide) and her mother.



Both are handsome, intelligent and lovely women. If you painted them white and planted them in Shawnee mission they would be your friends. We ate at a "Swiss" restaurant. Had Garozzo size portions of veal Parmesan, chicken Marsala, and veal with mushrooms, numerous side dishes, drinks and dessert for 3 people for $21 including 25% tax and tip.

It is very interesting that I have rarely been aware of anyone staring at me as a lone white. Walked more than 8 miles yesterday and never saw another white person, nor felt I was being observed.

Today (Sunday) I was awakened by chanting over a loud speaker probably from a church blocks away. It started at 3:30 am and was non stop till 7:30. I now recall that this was an annoying issue each Sunday in Gondar during my past visits. They take their religion very seriously here. There is not a day that I don't here Jesus Christ invoked in one context or another.

I guess I could have stayed at the Sheraton for $480 per night or the Hilton for $200+ per night. However it is very convenient being on the hospital campus where I practically roll out of bed to rounds in the morning, or where students and residents often stop me with questions or just to talk. However, there is a price for this.

The building I am in seems to have residents with families living in one room "apartments". The building is filthy beyond belief, worse than any abandoned home or crack house. However my four room apartment is clean and has every essential, except . . .

If you flush the toilet it takes 45 min to refill with every drop of water echoing throughout the apartment off the porcelain tank and plaster walls. The shower is a 2 1/2 by 2 1/2 ft shower stall base with no enclosure; by the time I am finished showering the entire bathroom is soaked with the splashing. The choices of water are ice cold and boiling on, and the steel hot water spigot gets so hot you can only handle it with a towel. I am not complaining,but rather grateful for the privilege of being here; just want to be able to remember what life is really like.

The weather in Addis is ideal. 70 and sunny every dat. However when the sun goes down it rapidly cools to 50. Somehow my apartment is always cool, and becomes cold at night. I sometimes shiver getting ready four bed, but once I get under the covers (4 blankets!) all well and somehow it is warmer by morning.

I'm off to get a pedicure, replenish a few groceries, and wander the streets for the day.