Utopia in Ethiopia

Debra Zeit (or Bishoftu) is a town, fifth largest in Ethiopia, just 45 km from Addis.  However the drive takes anywhere from 45’ to 3 hr; It took us about two hours with horrendous traffic.  Once we passed thru Debra Zeit, we drove 12 km through farms and countryside to arrive at Adulala (an Oromo word meaning worship the sun).  It is on a steep hill/small mountain on the shores of Lake Babagoya, one of several “crater”lakes in the area, the site of an extinct volcano.

My "cottage"

Two days ago in surgery.  Men are commonly with
arms around each other

The gari

After two days here, I can now forget the incredibly inefficient check-in process and instead attempt to describe perhaps the loveliest place I have ever visited.  This is not an over the top, lap of luxury , latest and greatest modernistic feat of a world famous architect.  It is environmentally and esthetically sensitive to the magnificence of the natural surroundings.  From most vantage points you would hardly know you were anywhere but in a semi-tropical forest.  Yet distributed up and down a very steep hillside are very large thatch roofed cottages, each with fireplace, living room, large bedroom and very large bathroom; each cottage has a spacious terrace overlooking lake and mountains in front and at least 40 or 50 feet of steps and walks leading to each cottage built into the hillside.  The pool, spa, “topview” recreation room, outdoor bonfire area, clay tennis courts, etc are all equally sensitive to the surroundings.  If they could reproduce this in the Caribbean or Hawaii it would be far more than $1000 per night, but it cannot be reproduced. There is a winding, switch back native stone walk to a “beach” far below with hundreds of yards of retaining walls built of native stone and seeming to be part of the natural hillside.  I have no idea how they could have designed and built this place based upon the resources I have seen even in Addis.  

Yesterday I walked 12 km to town through farms, tiny villages, and gradually into the city spreading out from the Addis road that runs through the center.  Had lunch overlooking another crater lake and talked with the first American tourists I have met in one month here.  There were 5, only two of whom had know each other previously, spending 3 weeks and hitting all the high points in the country.  Then walked half way back and took a gari (horse drawn cart) the rest of the way.

I have spoken to several people here (as far as I can tell I am the only non-Ethiopian) and learned a lot about the culture, sociology and economics of the country that has helped to bring together thoughts and ideas that I have had but for which I have lacked evidence. Just a tiny vignette: the government has enormous taxes on all imported goods, but some of this still does not make sense.  For example, liquor is taxed at 200% of the highest retail price that it can find on the internet; however, a glass of scotch is $3.50.  Cars are taxed at 200%; a Toyota Highlander that might retail for $40,000 in U.S. is $120,000 dollars here, and there are many.  Medical equipment is only taxed at 50% (of the highest price they can find).  Income tax is a flat 35%, but tax evasion is a national sport.

Shortly I will be off to the spa for a one hour manicure, 56 birr or $3.10.  I will then take a kayak (i.e. an inflatable raft) and row around the lake.  My driver arrives after lunch to take me back to Addis.

One last inexplicable vignette.  Almost all hotels, but not much else, take Visa.  I arrived here with cash for meals, etc. and my Visa card.  During my 45’ at ‘reception” (I was the only one there) among other issues they said they did not take Visa.  I inquired about an ATM (they are all over in Addis), and he said the only ATM is in town (12 km away) and is broken.  “You can  see one in Dukum”, a town that is perhaps 30 km (and a Bijaj or TikTuk is the only way to get there).  i eventually spoke with the manager who told me i could pay by Visa in Addis; they will come to my guest house for this.  Go figure.  The cashier can’t figure out how I can pay, and the manager looks at me and says I can pay in Addis (on my honor).

Can’t believe what happened after writing the above.  I hiked down to the lake front where they have a lovely shaded area with bar and reclining chairs.  Read on my ipad for a while before lunch.  Someone approached me and it is an Ethiopian friend of mine from Pennsylvania, Sisay.  Sisay has numerous business interests here and is with the family of a childhood friend of his.  He explained to his friend who I was and of course the friend send “I need you”.  He just came back from seeking a neurosurgery consultation in Bangkok where they could not help him.  Just has back pain, but he is going to bring his x-rays to my apartment when I get back tonite.