Friday

Today is a travel day. but first we go to the hospital for morning report.  This is followed by a “seminar”.  One of the residents gave an excellent presentation on neuroanesthesia.  This was followed by another superb presentation on trigeminal neuralgia.  By prior arrangement I supplemented this with some intra-operative photos of the treatment of this condition, as well as a review of all the available treatments.

In early afternoon we fly from Addis to Dire Dawa.  Took a minibus from Dire Dawa to Harar (45 miles in 1 hour for 22 birr = 75 cents). Harar is an ancient Muslim town with an old walled city, and the "new" city outside the old city walls.

  Bijaj (3 wheeled vehicle) to near our guest house and walked the rest of the way.  Primitive old traditional Muslim house on a narrow alley. 

They have only one twin bed room for Daniel and I, and a room up some very steep stairs for Sierra.  There is a bathroom across the small courtyard which is clean but primitive.  Today there is no running water whatever, apparently a common problem in Harar.

We have not eaten in many hours so we head to Fresh Touch, the primary recommendation in town.  Nothing fancy, but good food.  At dusk we head to see the hyena man.  This is a unique experience in all the world.  We hire a Bijaj to take us there for 40 birr.  I witnessed this several years ago and it is clear that the vehicle is not taking us to the place I had been.  Furthermore a native jumps in the vehicle with us and we are soon to learn that he is a “guide” to get his cut of an outrageous fee that is asked of us.  We are the only ones there and I am thinking this is a sham; the guide is asking 200 birr from each of us.  I am now convinced that this is  sham, but try to bargain (unsuccessfully) for 100 birr each.  We direct the driver to take us back at which point they agree to 100 birr, and many other people begin to arrive.  Turns out this is hyena man 2.  It is very dark, and the hyena man motions for some of the other tour cars to turn on their lights.  He begins calling the hyenas by name, and one by one they slowly emerge from the surrounding forest until there are 14 in all.  He begins throwing meat into the air and they move quickly to eat it.  He throws the meat closer and closer until one of the hyenas is eating from a stick he is holding and finally from his hand.  Sierra is one of those brave enough to take a seat on a rock next to the hyena man, hold a short stick and proceed to feed a hyena.

When all is done, we take our waiting Bijaj back to the main town square where there is a chat market in progress under the dark of night..